Walking the Picos de Europa and Asturias

Our first day of walking is spent on the Camino del Norte, on what is considered one of the most beautiful stages of this northern variant of the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.   

Option 1 – Berbes to Ribadesella 

Distance: 9.5km / 6 miles 

Ascent: 200m / 650 feet 

Descent: 200m / 650 feet 

This morning, we travel by coach west of Ribadesella to the charming village of Berbes.  We make our way back on foot from beach to beach and across meadows on the clifftop with stunning views of the Cantabrian Sea.  We pass the coastal village of Vega and as we approach Ribadesella we will walk along the Santa Marina Promenade lined with elegant early 19th and late 20th-century mansions.    

Option 2 – Playa Espasa to Ribadesella 

Distance:  14.5km / 9 miles 

Ascent: 435m / 1,400 feet 

Descent: 435m / 1,400 feet 

We travel past Berbes, the start of the option 1 walk, to Playa Espasa where we start our walk eastward on the wide, sandy beach.  We walk past green pastures and small coves, possibly meeting other pilgrims who are heading west to Santiago.   When we reach the village of Berbes we follow the same route as option 1 back to the hotel.   

Not only is Cabrales one of the main gateways to Picos de Europa National Park, but it also has great appeal to cheese lovers since a blue cheese is produced here by local farmers.  After our walk we visit the Queso Cabrales Museum which is housed in a cave still used to mature and mould the cheese in a centuries-old tradition.       

Option 1 – Arenas de Cabrales circular walk 

Distance: 9.5km / 6 miles 

Ascent:  420m / 1,380 feet 

Descent: 420 m / 1,380 feet 

This walk starts in the centre of Arenas de Cabrales and gives a good overview of traditional land use in the Picos.  From the authentic villages, stony footpaths lead up through holm oak and chestnut forests to mountain pastures.  Many of these paths have been widened to cart tracks and are therefore easily passable. During this walk we will stop at the Poo de Cabrales chigre, a typical village bar which is also a farm shop and meeting point. We finish our day with a visit to the Queso Museum.    

Option 2: Piedra de Raos and the old royal footpath 

Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles 

Ascent: 445m / 1,450 feet 

Descent: 715m / 2,350 feet 

This walk starts in Ortiguero and proceeds to Pandiello, a hamlet with magnificent views over the Picos de Europa.  From here, we walk north towards Piedra de Raos, a mountain pass where a large market was held every week in the Middle Ages, and mountain people, fishermen and traders sold their produce.  We then head east along the old royal footpath to Asiego, perhaps for a cup of coffee or organic apple juice in the village café.  Afterwards we continue past Carreña to Arena de Cabrales for a visit to the Queso Museum.   

Between the high peaks of the Picos and the spectacular coastline of Llanes lays a rural interior where you can stroll for hours along quite country lanes and dirt roads without seeing many tourists.  

Option 1 – Rural Piedra to coastal Llanes 

Distance: 10.5 km / 6.5 miles 

Ascent: 215 m / 700 feet 

Descent: 250 m / 820 feet 

This walk starts west of Llanes, in the village of Piedra, and follows paved and unpaved paths that pass through hamlets showcasing many fine examples of traditional architecture. In picturesque Porrua, with its stone houses and narrow streets, we stop for a coffee at the village square before continuing to Llanes.  We have some time to stroll around the medieval town which has a unique blend of coastal charm and mountain views.  The old town is home to 13th century walls, a Gothic Basilica and elegant mansions.        

Option 2 – The rugged Asturian coastline 

Distance: 14 km / 8.7 miles 

Ascent:  415 m / 1,360 feet 

Descent: 455 m / 1,490 feet  

The hamlet of Pendueles is the start of this walk and from here we will follow both flat, dirt roads and limestone footpaths which have been worn by the elements.  Here rainwater and seawater have shaped rivers, caves, grottoes, bays and geysers, known as bufones – small natural features that can only be reached on foot. The final section of our walk follows the Camino del Norte where we pass some of these bufones as well as the mouth of the river where wild sea otters live. Our arrival into Llanes leads us to the door of the Gothic Santa Maria del Consejo basilica. 

Today is yours to explore Ribadesella at your own pace. Stroll along the seafront promenade, relax on the beach, or sample local pastries like casadielles in a café. You might wander the old town’s narrow streets and lively squares or visit a traditional cider house. For history lovers, the nearby Tito Bustillo Caves and Museum Art Centre are a must. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the caves feature remarkable Palaeolithic art dating back over 35,000 years. Pre-booking is essential.

For stunning views, take the 2 km walk to the Ermita de la Guía. This 16th-century Renaissance-era chapel, perched on a clifftop, overlooks the town, mountains, and Cantabrian Sea. Its restored stonework and historic cannons recall Ribadesella’s maritime past, making it one of the area’s most impressive vantage points.

A whole day for a visit of the Lagos de Covadonga, the stunning glacial lakes in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, which was established in 1918 as the first National Park in Spain. We will drive up to the karst lakes which are located at 1,050 metres and were formed during the Ice Age from here a choice of two walks is available.    

Option 1: Lagos de Covadonga  

Distance :  6.5km / 4 miles 

Ascent :  225m / 740 feet 

Descent : 225m / 740 feet 

This walks sees us do a loop around the two lakes which make up the Lagos de Covadonga – Lago Enol and Lago Ercina.  Alpine meadows and crystal clear lakes with panoramic views of the Picos de Europa peaks greet us.   We have the opportunity to learn more about the National Park at the visitor centre.  We travel to the pilgrimage site of Covadonga to visit the basilica, one of the most important religious and historical sites in Northern Spain, and the cave where the Virgin of Convadonga is housed. Our final stop of the day is Cangas de Onis, whose Roman Bridge is one of the most photographed landmarks in Asturias, where we have some free time before returning to Ribadesella.   

Option 2: Lagos de Covadonga  

Distance :  11km / 7 miles 

Ascent :  325m / 1,060 feet 

Descent : 575m / 1,889 feet 

After walking the loop around the lakes as option 1, our route continues to the Mirador de la Reina, a vast natural basin and viewpoint which offers sweeping views of the mountains and valleys.  We then join with option 1 walkers to visit the pilgrimage site of Covandonga and Cangas de Onis. 

On our last day we return to the Camino del Norte pilgrimage route, starting in the village of Nueva, where the weekly market is held.  You might want to buy some tasty pastries, sandwiches and fruit before we start our walk.   

Option 1- Nueva to Ribadesella via Toriello 

Distance: 12km / 8 miles 

Ascent: 250m / 820 feet 

Descent: 325m / 1,060 feet 

A long but relatively flat walk following the Camino del Norte, along paved and unpaved roads country roads and through fields, where the yellow arrows and scallop shells keep you on the right track.  We may strike up conversations with passersby as pilgrims usually enjoy exchanging experiences.   We walk past traditional Asturian Villages including Toriello a picturesque village with views of the Cantabrian coast.     

Option 2 - Nueva to Ribadesella via Guadamia 

Distance: 15.2km / 9 miles 

Ascent: 535m / 1,755 feet 

Descent: 585m / 1,919 feet 

This walk follows the fishermen’s trails along the coast, which can be stony and may be slippy on rainy days.   One of the highlights of this section is the medieval bridge over the Guadamia River which was built by the Romans and rebuilt in the Middle Ages.  The path leads to Guadamia beach, a spectacular inlet between the cliffs and from here we continue on the path close to the cliffs offering us stunning views of the Cantabrian Sea.

We hope to see you again soon.